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© John Farren

Meeting 364 - Sicilian Wines from Azienda Agricola Cos

Friday 17th May 2013     Neville Hall, Waltham St Lawrence 

Presented by Chris Gutch and John Farren

        "The purpose of the Society is to bring together and serve all those who believe that a right understanding of good food and wine is an essential part of personal contentment and health………. offers far greater rewards than mere satisfaction of appetites." There is no doubt that the Berkshire Branch fully subscribes to this André Simon ideal and the Members meeting in May which explored Sicilian produce in both categories delivered above and beyond expectations.
       The excellent wines were presented by our member Chris Gutch, after a recent visit to the island, with help from John Farren and good support from Azienda Agricola COS based in Vittoria, Ragusa, Sicily. The matching food was selected & prepared by our own Charlotte Turner who served us a menu worthy of an Etoile Michelin - or maybe two!
       COS was founded by three University friends by buying one of the family's old vineyards and they harvested their first grapes in 1980. They are mainly bio-dynamic but without embracing the fringe aspects of that "religion". They are also unusual in using 400 litre clay Amphorae, called Pithos, imported from Spain, for both fermentation and ageing. About 20% of their wine is made in this way. Otherwise they use 9500 litre thermostatically controlled glazed concrete tanks for fermentation and either concrete or oak Foudres for ageing.
       This event was an appropriate occasion to taste some of the food whilst sampling the wines and Charlotte delivered bread with olive oil/balsamic vinegar and olives on the table with a fava bean shot - warm liquidised young broad bean soup, Arancini - bolognese rice balls, Trepanese pasta and Octopus carpaccio. A medley of delicious flavours and textures which worked very well with the wines.
       Of course wines from Sicily mean, in the main, local grape varieties or local names and this tasting was no exception. The aperitif was made by Murgo from Nerello Mascalese. This is like making champagne from Pinot Noir and consequently has a slight pinkish tinge. There was some residual sugar but it had a distinctive and satisfying flavour. We then tasted two COS whites together made from Grecanico (identical to Garganega) and with 50% Inzolia in the first (COS Rami). Soft and understated, the Pithos Bianco with saline notes would be good with raw fish.
       COS make red wines from Frappato and Nero d'Avola, both single cepages and blends. Their midrange COS Nero di Lupo 2009 (Nero d'Avola) was absolutely excellent. Towards the top of their range COS Contrada (Nero d'Avola) was rich, with an almost Amarone-like concentration and price to match! They are also starting to make wines with International varieties and their COS Maldafrica 2009 using Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Frappato, was fresh with good length and full flavours.
       The main course was delicious roast mutton with oven roasted Mediterranean vegetables and the evening's delights were completed with pistachio tarte, cannoli, mandorle parfait and amaretto strawberries. Members had the opportunity to re-taste some of the evening's wines with these two courses.(Chris Graham)

The Wines
Aperitivo: Murgo Brut 2008 Metodo Classico (Nerello Mascalese)
Bianco:
(1) COS Rami Bianco 2011 (Inzolia, Grecanico)
(2) COS Pithos Bianco 2011 (Grecanico)
Rosso:
(3) COS Frappato 2011 (Frappato)
(4) COS Nero di Lupo 2009 (Nero d'Avola)
(5) COS Cerasuola di Vittoria 2009 DOCG (Nero d'Avola, Frappato)
(6) COS Pithos Rosso 2011 (Nero d'Avola, Frappato)
(7) COS Maldafrica 2009 (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Frappato)
(8) COS Contrada 2007 (Nero d'Avola)